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Operators looking to cut expenses have targeted pastry chefs

The Ice Cream Sundae Must Be Stopped

To eat out in New cheap moncler jackets wholesale York is to drown in choices. Which neighborhood? Which cuisine? Updated or traditional? Speedy or stately? Loud moncler jackets on sale or just moderately loud? Menus are getting busier, surrounding the usual appetizers and main courses with snacks and raw bar items and “large format” platters.

moncler outlet online moncler jackets Sometimes you will have a choice of desserts, but not always, and, it seems to me, the choices are fewer than you had a few years ago. More and moncler coats for men more new restaurants offer just one or two desserts. And when you moncler jacket outlet go out as buy moncler jackets toronto often as moncler coats for kids I do, you start to notice that the one dessert you can count on seeing almost everywhere is an ice cream sundae. In many places, it’s the only dessert.

Some of these sundaes are moncler outlets usa obvious and unabashed nostalgia trips. These are the ones whose ice cream is piled up in a glass pedestal cup and then capped with whipped cream and the obligatory cherry on moncler outlet location top. In this category we have moncler outlet kids the sundaes at 4 Charles Prime Rib in Greenwich moncler outlet uk Village and the Office NYC just off Columbus Circle, both elaborate do it yourself jobs moncler jackets kids to which you can add candy in more varieties than the most ambitious trick or treater has ever hauled home.

cheap moncler coats Other restaurant sundaes are more restrained. Evoking childhood without the dirty clothes and runny noses, they dispense with certain stereotypical elements. One of the most stylish examples is the frozen yogurt at the Pool, a formal restaurant in the former Four Seasons space. The pastry chef, Stephanie Prida, stacks three egg shaped scoops not in a sundae cup but one on top of another, like an abstract sculpture. The sauces and toppings whey caramel, rhubarb poached with hibiscus, “grainola” moncler outlets uk come moncler jackets canada in little white dishes on the moncler coats for women side. Is there whipped cream? A cherry on top? Do the servers’ Tom Ford suits have elastic waistbands and clip on polyester neckties?

moncler outlet If you can recognize the sundae template in Ms. Prida’s frozen yogurt (ice cream plus sauce plus bits of what a pastry chef would call “texture”), then you will start to see moncler outlet online store it in moncler outlet usa desserts served all over town. Generally it is found in restaurants that have moncler coats for cheap a healthy sense of their moncler coats outlet own self worth but don’t have too many bells and whistles to show for it: the wine bars, moncler outlet online the gastro pubs, the all day cafes, the 28 seat, no reservations spot opened by a young chef who has cooked in Paris or Copenhagen.

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cheap moncler jackets outlet online moncler sale Have you had one of these? You generally find it in a shallow womens moncler jackets bowl or even on a plate, held in place by a patch of stale cake crumbs. I’ve had about a hundred of them over the moncler jackets toronto past few years, and I doubt there’s a single one I could pick out of a police lineup.

buy moncler jackets Dessert was put on this planet in order to surprise us. When did it become so numbingly predictable? It is as if discount moncler outlet every chef in town had decided that the only appetizer left standing would be the iceberg wedge.

You may be asking yourself: What kind of sociopath complains about ice cream sundaes? I am wondering about this, too. I just know that when I see one, I am almost never as excited as the servers seem to think I ought to be.

They get very emotive, servers, when they deliver the not very remarkable news that you can order a sundae. For dessert! In a restaurant! And when they announce that you, the customer, get to assemble it pour a sticky sauce over the ice cream cheap moncler jackets and glam it up with candy, peanuts, pretzels, breakfast cereal, week old bagels they get that look that Oprah Winfrey has when she starts giving away cars.

moncler sale outlet And I feel nothing, apart from a burning impatience for everybody to act like adults again. For nostalgia trips to work, you need to have the sensation of opening a memory you haven’t examined in a long time. cheap moncler coats for women Do moncler outlet woodbury it too often moncler jacket online and the returns diminish rapidly. Or, as Dan Hicks sang, “How Can I Miss You When You Won’t Go Away?”

cheap moncler But enough about the barren, echoing tundra that passes for my soul. Discount Moncler Coats Let’s talk about the future of New York restaurants.

“The restaurants that used to be looking for pastry chefs are looking for pastry sous chefs,” she said. “It’s all the same duties, all the same hours, all the same physical labor, but they can now pay you $30,000 or $40,000 less a year because you’re not a chef, you’re not in charge.”

monlcer down jackets As you may have heard, times are tough for local restaurants. Health insurance costs and the minimum wage have gone up, and the rent was already too damn high. Diners get skittish if prices are raised often or suddenly. Operators looking to cut expenses have targeted pastry chefs, moncler outlet canada and replaced them with pastry sous chefs who may be just out of culinary school, who may have little or no background in baking and almost certainly have no experience running a department that can turn out half a dozen thoughtful, inspired desserts every night.

“If you are a restaurant with no real pastry department, or can only really afford to do one dessert because of moncler jackets for women lack of labor or space, 99 percent of the time it’s going to be ice cream,” said Jen moncler coats sale Yee, executive pastry chef of Resurgens Hospitality Group in Atlanta. “It holds well, it doesn’t really get old, and you don’t really have to put a lot of effort into it.” And, she added, it’s the easiest dessert to sell. It’s a natural for sharing, too, which many tables like to do.

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cheap moncler coats cheap moncler jackets Ice cream can carry almost any flavor you want to give it fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, even alcohol and vinegars. It is like a blank canvas on which you can paint anything, if you moncler jackets outlet know what you’re doing.

moncler outlet store But for the most part, esoteric botanical expressions are not what restaurants want in an ice cream meant for sundaes, according to Jon Snyder, the founder of Il Laboratorio del Gelato. For years now his Lower East Side company has been the ice cheap moncler jackets outlet cream supplier of choice for New York chefs.

“Our flavor list is up to 275 now,” Mr. Snyder said. In sales to restaurants, though, “close to 40 percent is vanilla. Which is pretty crazy. But the fact is that vanilla pairs with anything, practically, and it works with sundaes.”

With the recent spike in vanilla bean prices, he said, a few restaurants have defected to even more neutral flavors: mascarpone, moncler jackets men crme frache, yogurt, fior di latte. But vanilla is still supreme.

And there’s something earnestly appealing about the chef John Fraser’s commitment to the sundae as a medium. His first job in the food business, as a teenager, was in a sundae shop. When he opened his high reaching restaurant Dovetail 10 years ago and wanted to offer an affordable fixed price menu on Sundays, he hit on the idea of Sundae Suppers.

He has always served a sundae at Narcissa, in the discount moncler jackets East Village, and he has three at his latest place, moncler jackets cheap the Loyal, on Bleecker Street. I respect him for that, and also respect him for installing a pastry chef at the Loyal (Mary Jennings) and giving her the license to make a few desserts that aren’t sundaes, too.

It’s the other kind of sundae that really has me worried about the moncler chicago future, the kind with a sauce that anybody who has held a whisk could make, and a depressing display of cake scat and cookie droppings. Because these aren’t really desserts. They’re ice cream in a wig. She calls ideas like that “tied with a chive,” after those inane bundles of green beans that caterers used to serve. Something that is cheap moncler tied with a chive is manipulated in order to express elegance and care, but in fact only communicates their absence. That’s how I feel about most of the sundaes in New York now.

Late one recent night, I dropped into Prune for a few bites and had two desserts that were the opposite of tied with a chive. moncler outlet store Neither one chunks of dark chocolate softening over just grilled bread; a whole navel orange poached in sugar syrup and then chilled was anybody’s idea of elegant, but they were somebody’s idea of good.

moncler mens jackets Prune does not have a pastry chef. It doesn’t have a pastry sous chef. It for sure doesn’t have a pastry kitchen. But it has a sense of how important it is for the last course to reflect the same sensibility that made the first two worth eating.

moncler sale By the way, neither dessert contained any ice cream.

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